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A drip from the spout while the tap is closed usually points to a worn washer or damaged valve seat in a multi-turn tap, or a faulty cartridge in a quarter-turn or single-lever mixer. Water around the handle usually points to a spindle seal, O-ring or cartridge seal; water around the base only while the tap runs is more consistent with spout or body seals. Isolate the water, confirm that flow stops, photograph the tap and match the exact part before dismantling it. Stop and use a qualified plumber if the isolation valve fails, the body is corroded or seized, the leak is inside a wall or cabinet, or local rules reserve the work for licensed people.
This guide is written for South Africa, Australia, New Zealand. Always check local codes, product specifications, licences, and site conditions.
Match where the water appears to the first likely fault
Dry the tap and sink, then observe it while closed and while running. The location and timing of the first fresh water are more useful than the sound of the drip.
Drip from the spout when closed
Drops continue after residual water should have drained, even though the handle is fully off.
Next checkIdentify whether the tap uses a rubber washer, ceramic headwork or a mixer cartridge; do not assume every tap accepts a generic washer.
Water around a multi-turn handle
The spindle or handle becomes wet mainly while the tap is open.
Next checkInspect the spindle O-ring or gland seal and the spindle condition after safe isolation; a spout washer alone will not repair this path.
Water around a mixer handle
Moisture emerges below the lever or cartridge cover and may track down the tap body.
Next checkFind the manufacturer and model, then check the correct cartridge and seal kit; cartridges can be dimensionally and rotationally specific.
Water at the swivel spout or tap base
The joint leaks when the water runs or when the spout is moved, but may stay dry while the tap is closed.
Next checkSuspect body or spout O-rings, a loose retaining detail or a damaged tap body; protect the finish and use only compatible seals and lubricant.
Water below the sink or inside the wall
The cabinet, flexible hose, isolation valve, pipe joint or wall becomes wet independently of the visible spout.
Next checkClose the supply, protect the area and arrange prompt professional assessment; concealed or pressurised connection leaks can cause significant damage.
Identify the tap and prove the isolation before dismantling
The repair is straightforward only when the water supply can be controlled and the correct internal part is available. Complete these checks while the tap still works.
- Photograph the complete tap, handles, any logo or model mark, the leak location and the pipework below the sink.
- Decide whether the control turns several rotations, a quarter turn, or uses one mixer lever; this narrows the internal mechanism.
- Locate the fixture isolation valves and the property main shut-off, then confirm which direction closes them without forcing a seized valve.
- Close the intended valve and open the tap to prove that flow stops completely before removing a handle or spindle.
- Protect the sink or bath, plug the waste and place a towel and shallow tray below the work to catch parts and residual water.
- Gather the manufacturer instructions, exact replacement part, screwdrivers or hex keys, a correctly sized spanner, soft cloth and potable-water-compatible silicone grease where specified.
- Check current local plumbing rules; Australian permissions vary by state or territory, and replacing complete tapware is not the same as changing a minor internal washer.
Choose the repair from the mechanism and leak path
Take the old part to a plumbing supplier when identification is uncertain. A part that looks similar can have a different height, spline, rotation or port arrangement.
| Tap and symptom | Likely service part | When to stop |
|---|---|---|
| Multi-turn tap drips from spout | Correct jumper valve or washer; inspect the retaining nut and valve seat | Seat is deeply pitted, spindle is seized, body cracks or isolation does not hold |
| Quarter-turn separate handle drips | Matching ceramic headwork or cartridge | Part cannot be identified, hot/cold rotation is uncertain or housing is corroded |
| Single-lever mixer drips or temperature wanders | Exact mixer cartridge and specified seals | Manufacturer instructions are unavailable, cartridge is stuck or complete tap replacement is regulated locally |
| Handle or spindle leaks while open | O-ring, gland seal or compatible spindle service kit | Shaft is scored, threads are damaged or tightening the gland does not control the leak |
| Swivel spout or base leaks while running | Spout/body O-rings and compatible lubricant | Tap body, sink fixing, flexible hose or concealed joint is also moving or leaking |
| Leak is below the sink or in the wall | Connection, hose, isolation valve or pipe repair | Treat as pressurised plumbing work and use the appropriately qualified person |
Deeper guidance
Why harder tightening often makes the problem worse
A compression tap seals when the washer meets its seat evenly, not when the handle is forced. Excess pressure can deform a soft washer, wear the spindle and make the next user tighten harder again. Ceramic cartridges also rely on aligned internal surfaces rather than brute force. If normal closing pressure does not stop the drip, repair the sealing components instead of using the handle as a clamp.
Why cartridges must be matched exactly
Mixer and quarter-turn cartridges can differ in body diameter, height, locating pins, spline, port layout and opening direction even when the handles look alike. An almost-correct part can sit proud, rotate the wrong way, cross-connect hot and cold or leak at its seals. Record the orientation, use a manufacturer part number where possible and compare the removed cartridge at a plumbing supplier before opening the replacement packaging.
Regional rules change the safe DIY boundary
South African municipal guidance supports a straightforward washer change but directs washerless or integrated-module faults to a qualified plumber. New Zealand publishes specific homeowner exemptions for certain tap repairs. Australia allows some minor work, but the permission varies by state or territory and complete tapware installation is licensed work. The practical guide therefore stops at a controlled internal service only where the local rule and product instructions allow it.
Test after the repair and again after the cabinet is closed
A dry first minute is encouraging but not conclusive. Check the tap closed and running, operate hot and cold, move a swivel spout and inspect the isolation valves and flexible hoses. Leave a dry tissue beneath suspect joints and recheck after normal household use and the following day. If the meter moves with all outlets off, continue the wider leak investigation rather than assuming the tap repair explains every loss.
Step by step
Confirm the exact leak path
Dry every visible surface. With the tap closed, watch the spout, handle, base, isolation valves and flexible hoses. Run cold and hot separately where possible, move a swivel spout gently and use dry tissue at joints to reveal the first moisture. Do not confuse water splashed from the sink with a pressurised leak.
Identify the mechanism
A traditional compression tap normally turns several times and uses a spindle pressing a rubber valve or washer onto a seat. Quarter-turn handles often use ceramic headworks, while a single lever normally controls a mixer cartridge. Remove only a decorative indicator or accessible handle cap if this can be done without disturbing the water connection, and record the fastener type and handle position.
Isolate and depressurise
Close the sound fixture isolation valve, or the property main when there is no reliable local valve. Open the tap until water stops and check another outlet if needed to confirm the correct supply is isolated. If flow continues, a valve is seized or water appears at a pipe connection, stop: the planned minor repair no longer has controlled conditions.
Remove parts without damaging the finish
Plug the waste, protect chrome or painted finishes with a cloth and use the correctly sized tool. Support the tap body so force is not transferred into flexible hoses, pipework, tiles or the sink. Lay parts out in removal order, photograph cartridge orientation and never use excessive force on a corroded spindle, retaining nut or decorative shroud.
Inspect before replacing
Check the removed washer, jumper valve, O-rings or cartridge for splitting, flattening, mineral debris, scoring and uneven wear. Inspect accessible seating surfaces without grinding or altering them speculatively. Clean loose debris using the product guidance; do not scratch ceramic faces or substitute thread tape for a seal that was designed to use an O-ring or flat washer.
Fit the exact compatible part
Match dimensions, spline, height, opening direction and manufacturer reference. Lubricate potable-water seals only with a product the manufacturer permits. Seat O-rings without twisting, align cartridge locating pins and tighten retaining details firmly but not excessively. Australian replacement products may need WaterMark and current lead-free compliance, while installation rules still depend on the jurisdiction and scope.
Restore water slowly and test every condition
Reassemble the handle in the original position and leave the cabinet open. Close the tap, restore the water gradually and inspect while closed, fully open, partly open and moving through hot and cold. Dry each joint and repeat the tissue check after several minutes. Confirm the isolation valves, hoses and tap fixing remain dry before replacing stored items.
Escalate a repeat or concealed leak
If a correct washer or cartridge does not stop the drip, do not keep tightening the handle. A damaged seat, scored spindle, cracked body, excessive pressure, debris, incompatible part or another leak path may be responsible. Keep the supply isolated when safe and arrange a qualified plumber for concealed water, failed isolation, corroded fittings, recurring leaks or work outside the local DIY allowance.
Expert tips
- Do not buy a generic washer kit until you know whether the tap is washer, ceramic headwork or mixer cartridge type.
- Never force a handle closed to silence a drip; overtightening can damage a soft washer, spindle, seat or cartridge.
- Do not apply petroleum grease to potable-water rubber seals; use only a compatible silicone lubricant when the product instructions call for it.
- Keep the old part and packaging until the repaired tap has passed both the immediate and next-day leak checks.
- If the property water meter still moves when every fixture and appliance is off, investigate a separate leak rather than assuming the repaired tap is the only source.
- Thermostatic, pressure-balancing, sensor and specialist commercial taps should be serviced to their instructions by an appropriately qualified person.
Common questions
Why is my tap still dripping after I replaced the washer?+
The replacement may be the wrong size or fitted poorly, but the valve seat, spindle or tap body may also be damaged. A quarter-turn or mixer tap may use a ceramic cartridge rather than a conventional washer. Stop tightening harder and identify the mechanism and the exact leak path.
How can I tell whether my tap has a washer or cartridge?+
A multi-turn handle commonly uses compression headwork and a rubber valve or washer. A quarter-turn handle often uses ceramic headwork, and a single lever commonly uses one mixer cartridge. These are clues, not guarantees; use the manufacturer mark, model information and the removed part to confirm.
Can I replace a tap cartridge myself?+
That depends on the tap, access and local law. New Zealand guidance recognises some homeowner tap repairs, while Australian allowances vary by state or territory and replacing complete tapware generally requires a licensed plumber. South African municipal guidance supports simple washer replacement but recommends a qualified plumber for washerless or integrated modules. Check the current rule where the property is located.
Why does my tap leak only when it is running?+
A leak that appears only during flow is more consistent with a handle or spindle seal, swivel-spout O-ring, aerator joint, tap-body seal, flexible hose or connection than with the closing washer alone. Dry the assembly and find where fresh water first emerges.
Should I use thread tape on a dripping tap?+
Not on a spout drip and not as a substitute for an O-ring, cartridge seal or flat washer. Thread-sealing tape is used only on suitable threaded joints designed for it. Applying it inside the wrong mechanism can obstruct, distort or contaminate the repair.
Is a dripping tap an emergency?+
A slow drip into a sound basin is not normally an emergency, but isolate and act quickly if water is entering a cabinet, wall, floor or electrical area; the tap or isolation valve will not close; a hose is bulging; or the leak is rapidly worsening. Concealed moisture can cause more damage than the visible drip suggests.
When is replacing the whole tap better than repairing it?+
Replacement may be more sensible when the body is cracked or heavily corroded, compatible cartridges are unavailable, several parts are worn, the fixing or hoses are failing, or repeated repairs have not lasted. Complete replacement can be regulated plumbing work, so confirm product approval and licensed-installation requirements first.
Sources & further reading
We link to official building-code, government and public-health material where a technical or safety claim needs authoritative context. Local rules and adopted code editions can change.
- City of Cape TownDIY guide to finding and fixing water leaksMunicipal step-by-step guidance for isolating a tap, replacing the correct washer and checking the repair without overtightening.↗
- RACVHow to fix a dripping tapEstablished Australian home-maintenance guide distinguishing washer taps, mixer cartridges, O-rings and valve-seat faults.↗
- Bunnings WorkshopHow to replace a tap washerIllustrated practical guide used to cross-check tool choice, isolation and traditional washer-tap disassembly.↗
- Cleanipedia South AfricaHow to fix a leaking tapSouth African homeowner guide covering traditional washer replacement and the importance of correcting a damaged valve seat.↗
- New Zealand Building PerformanceMinor changes to the Plumbers, Gasfitters, and Drainlayers ActOfficial New Zealand summary identifying homeowner repair or replacement of taps, ball valves, tap washers and plugs among specified exemptions.↗
- Australian Building Codes BoardNCC 2022 plumbing frequently asked questionsNational guidance explaining that complete mixer replacement requires a licensed plumber while permitted minor work such as tap-washer replacement varies by jurisdiction.↗
Stop if the work involves structural uncertainty, hazardous materials, heights, live services, gas, serious water damage, or regulated work. Local rules differ—use an appropriately licensed professional where required.