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Open and close the door slowly while watching the gap around all four edges. Mark the first rubbing point, then check for loose hinge screws, proud hinge leaves, a misaligned latch or strike, and folded weather seals. If binding follows rain or humidity, find and correct the moisture source before removing timber. Tighten sound fixings and correct hardware first; sand or plane only a proven high spot, remove the minimum the door maker allows, and immediately reseal every exposed edge. Stop if several openings change together, the frame is distorted, or an external door no longer locks securely.
This guide is written for South Africa, Australia, New Zealand. Always check local codes, product specifications, licences, and site conditions.
Match the rubbing pattern to the first repair
The gap around the closed door is a diagnostic map. Check it before loosening hardware or removing timber, because several faults can feel identical at the handle.
Top latch corner rubs
The gap is tight at the upper latch corner and wider near the lower hinge side; the latch may sit below the strike.
Next checkSupport the door and inspect the top hinge, screws and jamb fixing. Repair damaged fixing points before trimming.
Most of one edge rubs
The reveal is consistently narrow, or paint and compression marks run for much of the height.
Next checkCheck paint build-up, hinge seating, frame alignment and seasonal moisture. Uniform trimming is a last step.
Bottom scrapes the floor
A polished arc, torn floor finish or debris line appears beneath the swing; the door may lift at the handle.
Next checkRemove debris and check hinge wear, sag and recent flooring changes. Check product limits before shortening.
Latch misses without rubbing
The door swings freely, yet the latch hits above, below or beside the strike and needs lifting or slamming.
Next checkCheck hinges and handle return first. Mark the latch position, then adjust the strike only after the door hangs correctly.
Binding follows wet weather
The problem comes and goes with rain, humidity, a steamy bathroom or coastal exposure; unfinished end grain may darken.
Next checkDry the area, trace moisture and inspect every coated face and edge. Delay irreversible trimming until the door stabilises.
Several doors changed
Multiple doors or windows stick, gaps become diagonal, cracks grow, or floors feel newly uneven.
Next checkRecord dates and measurements and arrange a building assessment. Do not plane every door and erase evidence.
Prepare a no-damage door check
Most useful checks need only observation and hand tools. Protect the door, floor and fingers before adjusting anything.
- Ask when the problem began and whether it follows rain, humidity, painting, new flooring, impact, hinge work or building movement.
- Use a bright light, pencil, removable chalk, ruler, paper strip, correctly sized screwdriver and wedges or a helper for a heavy door.
- Photograph the closed gaps, hinge positions, strike plate and rubbing marks before changing them.
- Check labels, warranties and instructions before trimming composite, hollow-core, engineered, fire, acoustic, security or weather-rated doors.
- Keep children and pets away and never place fingers beneath an unsupported door. Glazed, solid and external doors may need two people.
- For an external door, confirm the lock, threshold, weather seals and drainage still work after adjustment.
Choose the smallest repair that fits the evidence
Work from reversible adjustments to irreversible cutting. Retest the full swing and latch after each single change.
| Evidence | First action | Do not do yet |
|---|---|---|
| Hinge leaf moves | Support the door and tighten or correctly repair the fixing | Do not drive an arbitrary long screw without checking frame construction and services |
| Latch misses; gaps are even | Check handle return and mark the latch against the strike | Do not enlarge the strike until loose hinges are ruled out |
| Weather seal is folded | Clean, refit or replace it with the specified profile | Do not remove weather protection permanently |
| Seasonal swelling or staining | Find the moisture source, dry and inspect the finish | Do not plane a wet door that may later shrink |
| One proven high spot | Trim minimally within product limits and reseal | Do not cut rated edges, labels or both the door and frame |
| Distorted frame or security failure | Use a carpenter, door specialist or building professional | Do not keep forcing, slamming or shaving the door |
Step by step
Prove exactly where it binds
Open and close the door slowly from both sides without forcing it. Watch the reveal at the top, latch side, hinge side and threshold. Slide a strip of paper through the closed gap where safe, or transfer removable chalk from the suspected edge. Mark only the first contact point: the door can touch there and then flex into a second mark that is not the cause. Note whether the handle must be lifted, pushed or pulled for the latch to engage and whether the fault changes through the swing.
Read the gaps and hinge movement
Stand on the latch side and compare the gap from top to bottom. A sagging door often has a tight upper latch corner and wider gap below, while a consistently tight edge suggests frame position, paint build-up or swelling. Hold the handle and lift very gently; visible movement at a hinge, worn pin or loose leaf needs attention. Check whether hinge knuckles align and each leaf sits flat in its recess without paint, debris or proud screw heads beneath it.
Tighten only sound, correct fixings
Support the door with a wedge or helper so its weight is not hanging from the screw being adjusted. Use the exact screwdriver bit and snug loose screws by hand to avoid stripping the hole. If a screw spins, the fixing point is damaged: do not keep driving a larger or longer screw blindly. Cables, pipes, glazing, thin jamb material or proprietary frames may be nearby. A carpenter can repair the fixing and check whether the jamb needs secure, correctly positioned support.
Check the latch after the door hangs correctly
With the hinges stable, close the door until the latch just touches the strike and mark the contact with removable pencil or tape. Confirm the handle and latch spring return freely and loose lever screws are not restricting movement. Minor strike adjustment may solve a clean mismatch, but retain sound material and screw purchase. An external security door, multipoint lock or fire door needs its specified alignment and specialist service if the lock binds or no longer secures.
Remove false obstructions
Clean grit, hardened paint drips and adhesive from the stop, threshold and hinge recess without damaging the finish. Look for a door sweep, compression seal or brush that has detached, doubled over or been replaced with a profile too thick for the designed gap. Refit or replace it with a compatible part; do not discard a weather, smoke, acoustic or pest seal merely to reduce closing effort. Also check for a raised rug, new transition or loose flooring.
Investigate moisture before trimming
Seasonal movement is likely when the problem follows rain, humid weather, shower use or a failed coating. Inspect the roof or wall above, threshold and drainage, bathroom ventilation, nearby plumbing and the door's top, bottom and cut edges. South African manufacturers emphasise sealing vulnerable end grain, while timber guidance confirms that moisture change drives swelling and shrinkage. Correct leaks and let the assembly stabilise. Wet, soft, mouldy, delaminating or rotten material needs assessment, not cosmetic sanding.
Trim only a confirmed high spot
Read the door maker's limit first; many engineered products have narrow timber lippings, and rated doors cannot be altered casually. Remove the door safely when required, mark the exact high spot and take the minimum controlled amount with a sharp hand plane or suitable abrasive, avoiding torn grain and uneven edges. Retest repeatedly rather than cutting to a guessed clearance. Stop if the construction becomes visible or the permitted trim is reached.
Reseal, rehang and test
Immediately coat every newly exposed face, edge, recess and end grain with the finish specified for the door, following preparation, drying and coat instructions. Rehang with all fixings seated and operate the door through its full swing at least ten times. Test the latch, lock, closer, threshold and seals from both sides. Confirm it stays in position without rubbing and does not create an excessive draught or light gap. Recheck after the next humid or rainy period and record the repair.
Expert tips
- Fix hinges before moving the strike plate; otherwise the latch may be aligned to a door that is still sagging.
- Never plane a door simply because it is tight on one wet day. Moisture swelling can reverse and leave a permanent gap.
- Do not hammer or bend hinges unless the hinge manufacturer provides that adjustment method.
- A dark top or bottom edge may show exposed end grain; resealing after trimming is part of the repair.
- Keep fire, smoke, acoustic, security and accessible-route doors within their certified clearances and hardware rules.
- If this is the only safe exit from a room, arrange prompt repair rather than accepting a door that can jam shut.
Common questions
Why does my wooden door stick only when it rains?+
Timber and timber-based components can take up moisture and change dimension. Rain entry, humid air, a wet threshold or unsealed top and bottom edges may make the door bind. Find the moisture path, dry the assembly and restore the manufacturer's coating system before deciding whether trimming is still necessary.
Should I sand or plane a sticking door?+
Only after hinges, frame, latch, seals, floor and moisture are checked and one high spot is proven. Sanding suits a very small paint correction; a plane removes material faster but can create an oversized gap. Follow the maker's trim limit and reseal the edge immediately.
Can loose hinges make a door refuse to close?+
Yes. Small movement at the top hinge can let the latch side sag enough to rub or miss the strike. Support the door and tighten only sound screws. A stripped hole, cracked jamb, worn hinge or moving frame needs a proper fixing repair.
Why does the latch miss when the door does not rub?+
The strike may be misaligned, the latch or handle may not return fully, or the door may have shifted slightly. Stabilise the hinges, mark where the latch meets the strike and make the smallest adjustment. External locks and multipoint systems may need a specialist.
Is a sticking door a sign of structural movement?+
One sticking door is often a local hinge, latch, moisture or paint problem. Concern increases when several openings change together, gaps become diagonal, cracks grow, floors slope or the problem progresses rapidly. Record the changes and obtain an appropriate building assessment.
Who should fix a door that keeps sticking?+
A handyman or carpenter can handle many conventional hinge, strike and minor fitting repairs. Use a door-system specialist for security, multipoint, aluminium, composite, glazed or warranty-controlled doors; a certified contractor for fire doors; and a building professional when the frame appears to move.
Sources & further reading
We link to official building-code, government and public-health material where a technical or safety claim needs authoritative context. Local rules and adopted code editions can change.
- SwartlandHow to maintain and care for Swartland wooden windows and doorsSouth African manufacturer guidance on inspecting timber doors, moisture damage, warping, finish maintenance and moving hardware.↗
- This Old HouseHow to fix a door that sticksEstablished how-to guidance used to cross-check gap diagnosis, hinge tightening, selective planing and resealing the repaired edge.↗
- WoodSolutionsSpecification and fabricationAustralian timber-industry technical guidance explaining moisture-related dimensional movement and the need to design and finish timber accordingly.↗
- JELD-WEN AustraliaCare and maintenance of windows and doorsManufacturer instructions covering cleaning, hardware care, drainage paths, coatings and full-edge sealing for timber doors.↗
- Bunnings AustraliaHow to seal gaps in doors and windowsPractical Australian guidance on locating air gaps and choosing weather seals without interfering with door operation.↗
Stop if the work involves structural uncertainty, hazardous materials, heights, live services, gas, serious water damage, or regulated work. Local rules differ—use an appropriately licensed professional where required.