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To tile a kitchen splashback, measure and dry-lay the complete area first, prepare a flat and firmly bonded wall, then mark a level datum rather than following an uneven worktop. Fix tiles in small sections with a compatible adhesive, check coverage and alignment as you work, allow the adhesive to cure, grout the field joints, and seal corners and the worktop junction with flexible sealant. Isolate electricity before working near outlets and use an electrician where local rules require regulated outlet work.
This guide is written for South Africa, Australia, New Zealand. Always check local codes, product specifications, licences, and site conditions.
Check the wall, layout and electrical work before buying adhesive
A splashback is a small area, but poor preparation shows immediately in uneven cuts, loose tiles and cracked edges. Resolve the finished thickness and every visible detail before mixing adhesive.
- Measure the tiled height and width, including behind appliances, around windows and at every cabinet end.
- Confirm the tile, trim, spacer, grout, adhesive, primer and flexible sealant are compatible with the wall and intended exposure.
- Locate outlets, switches, isolators and services; arrange a qualified electrician where covers, wiring or required clearances need alteration.
- Check the wall for loose paint, hollow finishes, grease, cracks, moisture damage and flatness before deciding whether it can be tiled.
- Choose the datum line, tile orientation and where cut tiles will fall around the hob, sink, outlets and exposed ends.
- Protect the worktop and keep the tile manufacturer’s cutting, fixing and cure instructions on site.
Decide the visible details before setting the first tile
The best starting point depends on the wall and focal points, not a fixed rule. Dry-lay enough tiles to see both ends and every outlet cut before committing adhesive.
| Detail | Decide before fixing | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Starting line | A level datum above the worktop or a temporary batten where the worktop is not level | Following an uneven worktop makes every course look uneven |
| Exposed ends | Trim profile, polished edge or full-tile finish | An unplanned raw cut is difficult to improve after grouting |
| Outlet cuts | Whether tiles are centred around visible outlets and the finished cover clearance | Small uneven cuts are highly visible and unsafe electrical changes need proper work |
| Corners and worktop junction | Flexible sealant colour and joint size | Rigid grout at changes of plane commonly cracks as the kitchen moves |
Deeper guidance
Make the wall suitable for the chosen tile
Heavy, large, translucent, glass and natural-stone tiles can need particular adhesives and preparation. Weak or glossy paint is not a reliable substrate. Flatten significant hollows before tiling; adhesive should not be improvised as a thick levelling compound unless the product specifically permits it.
Control adhesive coverage and alignment
Spread only what can be tiled within the adhesive open time, comb in one direction and periodically lift a tile to inspect transfer. Clean joints while the adhesive is fresh so grout can achieve useful depth. Use spacers as guides but keep checking the level and pattern rather than allowing accumulated variation.
Finish movement and wet junctions correctly
Allow adhesive to cure before grouting. Keep changes of plane and the worktop junction free for a compatible flexible sealant rather than rigid grout. Seal porous tile or stone as specified, protect uncured work from steam and splashes, and retain spare labelled tiles for future outlet or cabinet changes.
Step by step
Dry-lay the full visible run
Balance the layout around the hob, sink, windows, outlets and cabinet ends. Place spacers between sample tiles and mark the cuts at both ends. Shift the pattern before fixing if it creates a very narrow sliver in a prominent place.
Make the work area safe
Protect the worktop and isolate electrical circuits before removing outlet covers. Do not alter wiring, box depth or regulated clearances as part of a tiling job; have an appropriately qualified electrician deal with any change needed for the finished tile thickness.
Prepare a sound, flat wall
Remove grease and loose finishes, repair defects and prime only where the adhesive system requires it. Do not tile over damp, unstable or poorly bonded material. Check flatness with a straightedge: adhesive is not a reliable way to correct a seriously uneven wall while maintaining tile alignment.
Mark a level datum
Use a level line or temporary straight batten rather than assuming the worktop is level. This protects the horizontal courses; the joint above the worktop can accommodate a minor difference with a flexible sealant after tiling.
Apply adhesive in manageable sections
Use the compatible adhesive and trowel size for the tile and wall. Comb consistent ridges in one direction, press tiles firmly into place and lift an occasional tile early to confirm suitable contact. Do not spread more than can be tiled inside the adhesive’s open time.
Cut and set the detail tiles carefully
Measure each outlet, window and end cut individually. Use the correct cutting method and wear appropriate eye, hearing and dust protection. Keep joint widths consistent with spacers, check the face is flat across adjacent tiles and clean adhesive from joints before it hardens.
Cure, grout and seal the movement joints
Allow the adhesive to cure as specified, then grout only the field joints. Use flexible sealant at corners and where tile meets the worktop, cabinetry or another material. Refit covers only when the tile, adhesive and any electrical work are complete and safe.
Expert tips
- Switch off and verify power before removing outlet covers.
- Natural stone and some porous tiles need sealing.
- Use trims or polished edges deliberately at exposed ends.
Common questions
How do I tile a kitchen splashback?+
Dry-lay the layout first, prepare a sound flat wall, mark a level datum, then fix tiles in small compatible-adhesive sections while checking alignment and coverage. After the adhesive cures, grout the field joints and use flexible sealant—not rigid grout—at corners and along the worktop junction.
Can I tile over painted drywall?+
Often yes if it is sound, clean, flat, and compatible with the adhesive, but glossy or weak paint may need abrading or removal.
Where should the first tile go?+
Start from the layout line that protects the most visible symmetry and cut sizes, not automatically from a corner.
Do splashback corners need grout or silicone?+
Changes of plane generally need a flexible sealant rather than rigid grout so small movements do not crack the joint.
Sources & further reading
We link to official building-code, government and public-health material where a technical or safety claim needs authoritative context. Local rules and adopted code editions can change.
- Australian Building Codes BoardNCC Housing Provisions Part 10.2: Wet area waterproofingCurrent national-code details for water-resistant kitchen junctions and waterproof wet-area penetrations.↗
- The Tile AssociationThe Tile Association tiling guideIndustry guidance on movement joints, substrate changes and reducing tile and grout cracking.↗
Stop if the work involves structural uncertainty, hazardous materials, heights, live services, gas, serious water damage, or regulated work. Local rules differ—use an appropriately licensed professional where required.