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To tile a kitchen splashback, measure and dry-lay the complete area first, prepare a flat and firmly bonded wall, then mark a level datum rather than following an uneven worktop. Fix tiles in small sections with a compatible adhesive, check coverage and alignment as you work, allow the adhesive to cure, grout the field joints, and seal corners and the worktop junction with flexible sealant. Isolate electricity before working near outlets and use an electrician where local rules require regulated outlet work.
This guide is written for South Africa, Australia, New Zealand. Always check local codes, product specifications, licences, and site conditions.
Complete a dry layout before mixing adhesive
The eye notices outlet cuts, cabinet lines and thin edge pieces. Plan the entire field at full tile-and-joint dimensions.
- Confirm the final worktop, cabinet and extractor positions and identify exposed tile edges.
- Check wall flatness, strength, cleanliness, paint adhesion and primer requirements.
- Lay out tile plus actual joint width around the hob, sink, windows and sockets.
- Choose compatible adhesive, grout, flexible sealant, trims and any sealer.
- Arrange safe electrical isolation and an electrician where outlet work is regulated.
Choose the start line from the focal point
A level datum protects the design from an uneven worktop. The best starting point depends on what the eye sees first.
| Focal condition | Layout priority | Check before fixing |
|---|---|---|
| Centred hob or cooker | Balance the field and cuts around the appliance centreline | Extractor, cabinet and appliance centre lines actually align |
| Long uninterrupted run | Use a level horizontal datum and avoid a narrow strip at either end | Worktop variation can be absorbed by the bottom cut |
| Window or open shelf | Balance cuts around the reveal and visible edges | Trim thickness and sill or shelf level are included |
| Strong patterned tile | Dry-lay repeats and decide where the pattern begins and ends | Extra tiles cover matching, breakage and future repair |
Deeper guidance
Make the wall suitable for the chosen tile
Heavy, large, translucent, glass and natural-stone tiles can need particular adhesives and preparation. Weak or glossy paint is not a reliable substrate. Flatten significant hollows before tiling; adhesive should not be improvised as a thick levelling compound unless the product specifically permits it.
Control adhesive coverage and alignment
Spread only what can be tiled within the adhesive open time, comb in one direction and periodically lift a tile to inspect transfer. Clean joints while the adhesive is fresh so grout can achieve useful depth. Use spacers as guides but keep checking the level and pattern rather than allowing accumulated variation.
Finish movement and wet junctions correctly
Allow adhesive to cure before grouting. Keep changes of plane and the worktop junction free for a compatible flexible sealant rather than rigid grout. Seal porous tile or stone as specified, protect uncured work from steam and splashes, and retain spare labelled tiles for future outlet or cabinet changes.
Step by step
Plan the visible cuts
Balance the layout around the hob, sink, windows, and cabinet ends. Avoid thin slivers at prominent edges.
Prepare and mark
Clean, flatten, and prime the wall if required. Mark a reliable level line rather than following an uneven worktop.
Set the tile
Apply compatible adhesive with the correct trowel. Work in small areas and check alignment, coverage, and joint width often.
Finish the joints
After curing, grout the field joints and use flexible sealant at corners and where tile meets the worktop or cabinetry.
Expert tips
- Switch off and verify power before removing outlet covers.
- Natural stone and some porous tiles need sealing.
- Use trims or polished edges deliberately at exposed ends.
Common questions
Can I tile over painted drywall?+
Often yes if it is sound, clean, flat, and compatible with the adhesive, but glossy or weak paint may need abrading or removal.
Where should the first tile go?+
Start from the layout line that protects the most visible symmetry and cut sizes, not automatically from a corner.
Do splashback corners need grout or silicone?+
Changes of plane generally need a flexible sealant rather than rigid grout so small movements do not crack the joint.
Sources & further reading
We link to official building-code, government and public-health material where a technical or safety claim needs authoritative context. Local rules and adopted code editions can change.
- Australian Building Codes BoardNCC Housing Provisions Part 10.2: Wet area waterproofingCurrent national-code details for water-resistant kitchen junctions and waterproof wet-area penetrations.↗
- The Tile AssociationThe Tile Association tiling guideIndustry guidance on movement joints, substrate changes and reducing tile and grout cracking.↗
Stop if the work involves structural uncertainty, hazardous materials, heights, live services, gas, serious water damage, or regulated work. Local rules differ—use an appropriately licensed professional where required.