Dry-plan the layout from the most visible centre or edge, mark a level datum, prepare the wall, spread compatible adhesive in small sections, set tiles with consistent joints, then grout and seal movement joints with flexible sealant.
Step by step
Plan the visible cuts
Balance the layout around the hob, sink, windows, and cabinet ends. Avoid thin slivers at prominent edges.
Prepare and mark
Clean, flatten, and prime the wall if required. Mark a reliable level line rather than following an uneven worktop.
Set the tile
Apply compatible adhesive with the correct trowel. Work in small areas and check alignment, coverage, and joint width often.
Finish the joints
After curing, grout the field joints and use flexible sealant at corners and where tile meets the worktop or cabinetry.
Expert tips
- Switch off and verify power before removing outlet covers.
- Natural stone and some porous tiles need sealing.
- Use trims or polished edges deliberately at exposed ends.
Common questions
Can I tile over painted drywall?+
Often yes if it is sound, clean, flat, and compatible with the adhesive, but glossy or weak paint may need abrading or removal.
Where should the first tile go?+
Start from the layout line that protects the most visible symmetry and cut sizes, not automatically from a corner.
Do splashback corners need grout or silicone?+
Changes of plane generally need a flexible sealant rather than rigid grout so small movements do not crack the joint.
Stop if the work involves structural uncertainty, hazardous materials, heights, live services, gas, serious water damage, or regulated work. Local rules differ—use an appropriately licensed professional where required.